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随着中国消费者被似乎是每天一个又层出不穷轰动全国的食品丑闻弄得精疲力竭时,茶叶,这个在18世纪让外国商人垂涎三尺的商品,正以人们意想不到方式回归中国。

中国人在哪里可以买到顶级中国茶叶?

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译者:幸福的微笑原文作者:ILARIA MARIA SALA
发布:2011-06-10 18:40:38挑错 | 查看修改版本 | 收藏本文
Selling Tea to China

把茶叶卖给中国人

Where do Chinese people go to purchase the best Chinese tea? Not China.

中国人在哪里可以买到顶级的中国茶叶?答案不在中国

By ILARIA MARIA SALA
  

作者: ILARIA MARIA SALA

  
Hong Kong

发自香港

Mainland Chinese visitors to this former British colony are renowned for stocking up on luxury goods like Prada and Louis Vuitton handbags that are cheaper than at home, and less likely to be counterfeits. But now there\'s a new trend in trophy purchases to show off back home: top-quality Chinese tea.

对于到香港这个前英国殖民地游玩的中国大陆游客来说,这里是个淘宝的好地方,像普拉达(PRADA)和路易威登(LouisVuitton)这样的奢侈品牌手袋的价格不仅比内地便宜不少,而且保证真品。可现在,这里又出现了一股新的潮流,有更值得抱回家炫耀的宝贝出现了:上品中国茶。  

Catherine Tam, shop manager at Fook Ming Tong, one of Hong Kong\'s best-known tea shops, explains that Chinese customers are buying up a variety called Da Hong Pao, or \"Big Red Robe.\" From the oolong (or semi-fermented) family, it\'s grown in the fabled Wuyi mountains in northern Fujian province. Shrouded in mist during most of the year, this area comprised of 36 stony peaks has been used to cultivate \"rock teas\" since the Tang dynasty (A.D. 618-907).

凯瑟琳·谭(Catherine Tam),是香港著名的茶叶销售店福茗堂茶庄的经理,她介绍说当前中国大陆的顾客热购的茶叶是“大红袍”系列。大红袍属乌龙茶系,产自中国福建北部的武夷山中,这里终年云雾弥漫,自唐代(公元618-907年)开始,人们就在这里的36座石峰之上培育这种“岩茶”。

Rock teas brew a dark, reddish liquor, with an initially bitter, slightly woody flavor, that quickly metamorphoses into a sweet and lingering aftertaste, with delicate hints of honey and fruit. The leaves, long and twisted, can be infused up to 15 times. As is common with many products in China, Da Hong Pao is believed to have health benefits: \"It helps fight cholesterol, and has antioxidant properties,\" explains Ms. Tam.

新泡的大红袍茶汤色如暗红色的红酒,初尝味苦,带木香味,冲泡后味道很快会转为甘甜绵延,微微有蜂蜜与水果混合的清香之感。茶叶形状修长而缠绕,能冲泡到15次以上。在中国的各种特产中,大红袍被认为具有养生保健的功效。谭小姐说:“它具有降低胆固醇和抗氧化的作用哟。”


\"\"

图片说明:中国四川的一个茶叶市场。中国最好的茶叶,能卖的都卖到海外去了。

  
As legend has it, Da Hong Pao derives its name not from the reddish hue of its leaves, or the tea liquor, but from an emperor\'s favor. The mother of a Ming dynasty emperor was cured of what today we would call high cholesterol by drinking Da Hong Pao. To thank the bushes that saved her, the filial emperor sent mandarin red silk robes to cover the tea trees—rewarding them, so to speak, by giving them scholar status.

相传,大红袍之名并非来自其叶片颜色或是其茶汤色,而是由于皇家的恩赐。据说明代有位皇太后得了我们今天称之为高胆固醇的疾病,就靠喝大红袍而痊愈。孝顺的皇帝为了感谢茶叶的救母之恩,在茶树上披上了大红色的丝绸袍子作为赏赐——就好比说,封给这棵树大学士的地位。

The original handful of Da Hong Pao bushes, which have been harvested since the Song dynasty (A.D. 960-1279, a golden age for tea appreciation), are said to produce the very best Da Hong Pao, and a few grams of it can fetch hundreds of dollars. Until 2005, these leaves were reserved for the Chinese government. Then, the tea plantations on Wuyi mountain were privatized, some cultivars removed from the original bushes transplanted to other locations, and a lot of different grades of Da Hong Pao have since been hitting the market.

现存最古老的大红袍茶丛,自宋代开始采摘(公元960-1279年,中国的品茗盛世),据说它产出的大红袍茶叶品质是最好的,少少几克就值数百美元。2005年前,这些茶叶都由中国政府统一收存。后来,武夷山茶园实行私有承包,从母树上移植出的茶树已在各地落地生根,产出不同等级的大红袍茶叶在市场上销售。  

Tea connoisseurs appreciate Da Hong Pao\'s finer qualities, but it commands high prices for another reason: the thrill of enjoying something that used to be reserved for the most exclusive elite due to its rarity. Previously, other than imperial and Communist Party big shots, the tea was reserved for visiting dignitaries. An oft-quoted story recalls that Richard Nixon was given 50 grams of Da Hong Pao by Mao Zedong in 1972. Shortly afterward, Nixon quipped with his aides that the Chinese leader must be quite stingy to part with such a small amount of leaves, but he understood the value of the gift when someone told him that what he had been given was half of the whole harvest of top-grade Da Hong Pao for that year.


茶叶鉴赏家们欣赏大红袍的优秀品质,但大红袍奇高的价格则来自于另一个原因:拥有为非常之人而备的非常之物的快感。以往,这种茶叶只有皇家或是共产党的领导人物能拥有,有时也作为礼物馈赠给国外的贵宾。有个常被提起的故事说:1972年尼克松来华访问时毛泽东送了50克大红袍给他。后来,尼克松跟他的助手开玩笑说,中国领导人很小气,只给了这么一点茶叶,不过后来尼克松知道了这些茶叶的价值,有人告诉他,他得到的茶叶相当于那年顶级大红袍产量的一半。  


As with many other coveted products in the freewheeling Chinese marketplace, however, there are now plenty of counterfeits swirling around. Unscrupulous suppliers have been packaging lower-quality oolong as Da Hong Pao, or enhancing low-quality leaves with chemical additives. Which in turn explains why Hong Kong is so popular as a place to buy it.


就像其它在中国的自由市场上被人追捧的商品一样,有无数的假冒伪劣产品围绕在真货的周围。无法无天的商家们把低品质的乌龙茶包装成大红袍,在低档茶叶上添加化学物质让它看上去更高档。这就是为什么人们流行到香港买大红袍的原因。  

\"Mainland customers buy it from us in Hong Kong mainly because they trust our thoroughness with provenance,\" says Ms. Tam. \"We have very strict quality controls, with our own personnel at every step of the way, which guarantees that what we market as Wuyi Da Hong Pao really is what it says. We only provide 70 boxes a year, and no more, as this is the amount we can guarantee to be pure, high-grade Da Hong Pao.\"

谭小姐说:“大陆顾客来香港就到我们这儿买东西是因为他们相信我们这里进的是真货。我们有严格的质控,我们的人盯着茶叶生产的每一步,这保证了我们卖的大红袍货真价实。我们一年只能提供70盒大红袍,要多也没有了。我们可以保证这就是最纯正、最顶级的大红袍。”

Farther afield, too, Chinese shoppers stop at the best tea retailers. In Paris, you might be surprised to see the flagship store and tea room of Mariage Freres, in the trendy Marais neighborhood, packed with excited Chinese tourists, but Laurent Sonnino, the shop manager, is not. \"We stopped being surprised years ago. Chinese visitors just keep flocking in,\" he beams.

在更遥远的国度,也有中国的消费者在顶级茶叶销售者前驻足。在巴黎,你会诧异地看到成群激动的中国游客挤在时尚的玛丽街区上的Mariages Frères(法国著名茶叶品牌,译者注)旗舰店的茶屋里。店长劳伦斯·松尼诺(LaurentSonnino)一点也不惊讶:“这几年我们都见多不怪了,涌进来的中国人越来越多。”他眉开眼笑地说。

\"They are very brand conscious, in particular for gifts to carry back home that show refinement and luxury,\" Mr. Sonnino explains. \"Nowadays, a growing minority is buying the best teas imported from India and some of our mélanges, and, yes, increasingly, some of the top-grade Chinese tea as well.\"

松尼诺说:“中国人很讲究牌子,特别是带回家当礼物的商品,包装一定要精致豪华。现在,有小部分人开始从我们这儿购买从印度进口的或本地产的顶级茶叶,当然,还有顶级中国茶叶,而且数量在不断增长中。”  

As Chinese consumers remain weary of the countless food scandals that rock the country on a seemingly daily basis, tea, that commodity so coveted by foreign traders coming to China in the 18th century, is now making an unexpected round-trip journey.

随着中国消费者被似乎是每天一个又层出不穷、轰动全国的食品丑闻弄得精疲力竭时,茶叶,这个在18世纪让外国商人垂涎三尺的商品,正以人们意想不到方式回归中国。  

Ms. Sala is a Hong Kong-based writer.

莎拉女士是一位香港作家。

相关译文来自无觅插件
已收集到14评论
spiderconch发表于:2011-06-11 00:05:18

"特别是带回家当礼物的商品,包装一定要精致豪华", 是啊,在国内,常常是败絮其中啊,但价位却离奇的高。

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liuliuliuliu发表于:2011-06-11 08:08:44

这年头,哎,,,本来是中国的东西,但是只有到了国外才能买到真品,无话可说

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陈醉发表于:2011-06-11 09:05:46

最顶级的应该是红岁的顶级茶叶。最贵的是100块一克。

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sailor84发表于:2011-06-11 13:44:34

是“买”还是“卖”???

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sailor84发表于:2011-06-11 13:46:24

结尾这个“哟”字如何得出?

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小光2010发表于:2011-06-11 22:52:36

绝望啊

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yong1943发表于:2011-06-11 23:09:46

真是悲哀啊

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Martian.J发表于:2011-06-11 23:47:38

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njweili发表于:2011-06-12 16:43:00

标题还没改回来 哪里  不是  那里

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liuliuliuliu发表于:2011-06-12 16:46:09

呵呵是译者的口头语哦

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一从更发表于:2011-06-14 17:48:03

中国的食品质量到底是怎么监管的啊。。。。。

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fytuki发表于:2011-06-15 20:30:42

會不會講的有些絕對化了啊,我家自己每年都會採摘茶葉,自己種的,自己做的茶。在婺源那個山清水秀的地方也是有好東西的。

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夏Summer发表于:2011-06-18 16:39:37

何止是茶叶?国产的好东西几乎没有了。

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夏Summer发表于:2011-06-18 16:44:42
fytuki:會不會講的有些絕對化了啊,我家自己每年都會採摘茶葉,自己種的,自己做的茶。在婺源那個山清水秀的地方也是有好東西的。

一点都不绝对。你能自己种茶,那是因为家刚好在婺源。可你能买到真茅台么?

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草木皆兵发表于:2011-06-20 10:51:01

对,如同在美国可以买到真正的五粮液一样,国人生活在国内为假货所包围。

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11huo发表于:2011-06-22 15:12:26

不知道怎么说了。。。

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atomicdog发表于:2011-07-06 17:32:11

人类真可笑,一个茶叶弄得好像无比稀有,我想问,茶叶本身不分三六九等,人为的非要分出来好坏,纯粹扯蛋。

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槑文華发表于:2011-12-28 10:43:08

中国最好的茶叶,能卖的都卖到海外去了 无语啊,中国人真贱哪

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